It was always an aim to visit La Puerta de Hayu Marka (the Gate of the Gods). This secluded sacred spot is not on your average tourist trail. There didn't seem to be that much about it online and the information that was there was often contradictory. One website seemed to give some clues so I started out on the 140km round trip with my fingers crossed.
All four parts of the journey were by combis and in total cost about £2.50. The first bus I needed was to what I thought was Llave (key in Spanish) and I spent a good 90 minutes roaming Puno asking people how to get to the key. After some time I found a bus going to Ilave, with an 'I', hopped on and had an amazing trip along Titicaca's shore. From there I travelled on to Santiago, a place deemed so insignificant by Google it's not on their maps.
It is said that during the time of the conquests, an Incan priest called Aramu Muru, fled to this area of astonishing rock formations. He carried with him a golden disc known as ´the key of the gods of the seven rays'. Whilst in the mountains he came upon a doorway carved in the rock guarded by shamans. Within this doorway is a circular hole into which he placed the disc. This caused a portal to another dimension to open and in he went, never to be seen again. Whilst I would like to have travelled through 'the gateway to the land of the gods', sadly I didn't have the required disc.
Murphy's Law - I went there independently to be alone in this special place. However, just before I arrived a group of 30 spiritual tourists disembarked. I almost signed up for one of these trips and, as I watched them all hugging whilst being hurried along by the organiser, I'm glad I didn't. I'm pretty sure I share many of their sentiments but it all seemed a little staged.
Once they'd left I made my despacho to Pachamama and headed home, meeting some great Peruanos on the way. And, yes, I'm certain Mother Nature cherishes my offering of bubble gum and a chocolate biscuit.
2 comments:
quality mate-- getting into the swing of it now!!-- if you're eating 'flesh' at the moment u should try the trout from late titikaka-- its very good- and can be cooked in many different ways-- i had it on the bolivian side of the border- i'm not sure if the recipies would be different over there?!
Funny you should mention that. I had my first trucha frita today on Taquile. Very fresh, very tasty. Can't beat it. Cuy next.
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