Monday, 7 November 2011

El Lago Titicaca...


Well, here I am at the sacred Lake Titicaca in the main Peruvian tourist own of Puno.  At 3,811m Titicaca is known to be the highest navigable inland lake in the world.  27 rivers feed its 893 cubic km of saline water.  It measures 190km by 80km when the level is high and is 281m deep at its deepest point. It is a very sacred place for the four peoples that have lived on its shores.  It is thought that Viracocha, the creator god, rose from the waters to create the sun, moon, stars and humans.  A mysterious submerged temple has recently been discovered below the surface.
At its best, Titicaca is stunning to the senses in every way.  Its vast expanse sparkles in the sunlight and the air here is like that of the coast.  Much wildlife uses the lake as a home.
However, close to Puno are some shocking sights that would suggest Titicaca is far from sacred.  Some of the most polluted water I've ever seen is allowed to enter the lake untreated.  As with many less economically developed countries, rubbish is a problem but to see this at the main tourist spot was surprising to say the least.  Saying that, the townsfolk realise the problem and do seem to be working to improve conditions.  The lake is vast and wil have a considerable capacity to deal with pollution before there are irreversible impacts.  Birds still feed close to where these images were taken and, surprisingly, people are growing crops metres away.
Puno itself is nothing to write home about. so I'll keep it brief  Another colonial cathedral and the odd museum.  There is the Kuntur Wasi, a giant metal condor above the city from which great views can be had.

Nearby is Sillustani, a beautiful peninsula on an inland laguna known as Umayu, was once used by pre-Inca civilisations as a place to for the dead.  The wealthiest nobles would be dressed in their best attire before being placed in foetal position on the ground surrounded by their fineries.  Once in position in this beautiful landscape (which reminded me of the reservoirs in the Dales and Peaks) they were covered in stones and enclosed in stones cut with great precision.  Ceremonies were held in sacred circles dedicated to the sun and moon which are aligned to the solstices.  Not a bad way to go!

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