Monday, 27 February 2012

Closing the circle - 360º - Madre Ayahuasca...

My second desire over the last ten years has been to explore the mind a little.  This began with meditation, first with the FWBO and then in the vipassana tradition.  This gave me some tools to help explore a different path; the powerful plant medicine from the Amazon - ayahuasca.  It was only fitting to end the trip with one final ceremony and we headed to Pisac in the Sacred Valley to do just that.  Strangely, when we arrived we weren't greeted or given any instructions about the evenings events.  Still, the place looked the part and we made our own way into the maloka, already filled with about twenty people.  A French guy, Jean, was holding space that night and, after a few opening words, we began to drink in turn.

It was a strange beginning to a ceremony for me.  Earlier that day I'd had an encounter with an artisan-cum-shaman who had thrown me into some confusion - mainly by insisting I was confused!  Our interchange had put me right back in the mindset I'd had when I'd arrived to work with ayahuasca - doubt and skepticism. However, once again ayahuasca would work her magic, dispelling my doubt about her power to work wonders and transforming my skepticism into fascination once again.  It began gently as I sat listening to the music - accompanied by the beginning of a veritable symphony of vomiting from the pasajeros. Apart from one English guy heavy breathing in my direction for most of the night, the evening was remarkably peaceful.  I even fell asleep and snored for a spell.

I had a simple intention for my last encounter with the great teacher which was 'show me what I need to know.'  And a few things came into my awareness which were helpful reminders or fresh insights.  One example was the reason I always like to walk in the hills if there's something on my mind.  The problem isn't always solved on my return but for some reason I always feel better about it.  The reason, it was made apparent to me, is the fact that, when walking in highlands, the landscape forces upon us a sense of our insignificance.  Just a tiny, ephemeral human trotting through the massive, ancient land.  This sense of insignificance makes any problem seem like a passing breeze rather than a hurricane force gale.

Ayahuasca works in mysterious ways:  a hard taskmaster and a kind protector; an unforgiving mirror and wise teacher.  The journey is not always easy, physically or mentally, but the rewards are manifold.  I have seen and felt many things, some of which are of  immediate practical benefit and others seeming more like a strange dream or an overactive imagination.  This is no drug, it is far more than that.  A great deal of my skepticism has left me and I feel there is far more to ayahuasca than meets the eye.  Yet, the further I've gone down this journey of the mind it is questions that arise far more frequently than answers.  It's a little complicated! 


So, for now, as the circle closes on this odyssey, my desires have been sated, at least in part.  Yet already I imagine new ceremonies I want to attend and other far-flung locations I want to pass through.  It seems one lifetime isn't going to be enough!

Sunday, 26 February 2012

Closing the circle - 180º - Machu Picchu...

Perú

Over the last decade or so I've had two desires.  The first of which was to explore the world a little more.  The four months I've spent in South America on my Andean odyssey (with rainforest add-ons) has gone a long way to satiate that thirst.  The original plan to travel south through Perú and Bolivia, experiencing both countries in depth, was scuppered in the early stages.   First, by the discovery of the possibility of attending the Eagle Condor Festival in Brazil.  I factored this into my plans, no hesitation.  The other huge disruption to my well-thought-out route was meeting the girl who has now become my other half only four days into my trip.

Mexico
Many years ago I saw a picture of the legendary Machu Picchu.  Before then I'd been lucky enough to visit some European countries with my family but this place sparked a desire to travel further afield that would grow over time.  Eventually, I got to visit some more exotic locations both alone and with some great travelling companions:  Mexico by myself to begin with, charging round Morocco with Phil came next, laughing all the way from Salvador to Rio with John in Brazil followed and, most recently, a life-changing journey through northern India with Andy.  I thank them all for putting up with my idiosyncrasies.  But the primary motivating factor for all these trips was still unseen by my eyes - Machu Picchu.

Morocco
Thanks to sage advice from my old pal, Erry, I booked the Inca Trail whilst in the UK.  Had I not I wouldn't have been able to trek along this famous route.  It is thanks to him I was able to open the circle properly.  Early in my adventure my dream finally came true and this wonder of the Incas was before my eyes, surpassing my expectations.  However, I had to leave early to meet the rest of my group but when I did I somehow knew I'd return.  And that I did.

Brazil
My novia and I woke before four in the morning to try and beat the huge influx of tourists to the site arriving by bus. The walk up the steep path in the dark was one of the best bits of the day.  The silent forest around us slowly came to life as the sun rose.  It was only as we neared the top of the path that the first buses arrived.  The weather was similar to my previous visit; mist covering the valley and hills, all views obscured.  In contrast to November, the weather would not become a glorious sunny day but, now firmly in the wet season, would only get worse.  We had a chance to roam the site with only a few other tourists.  It was good to see the reaction of someone seeing this place for the first time.  Really great, especially as Machu Picchu was also one of the main reasons she was in Perú.  So, sat at the top of Huyana Picchu in the clouds the exploration of South America came to an end, at least for now.  And in the place of Machu Picchu, Angkor Wat began to rise in my mind's eye.

India
“We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the bypaths and untrodden depths of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world the glories of our journey.”
John Hope Franklin