The previous evening, our second guide, Eddie 'Spaghetti', had told us about the day's programme. The morning was ours to do as we pleased and he recommended a 2km walk through a cactus forest to one of the more famous beaches on Santa Cruz, Tortuga Bay. The searing heat was intense as we walked along the specially made path path through the otherwise inpentrable collection of flora and volcanic rocks. The opuntia cacti that grow here are like trees and are often over five metres tall. Throughout the walk we spotted cactus finches and lizards with bright red heads. We passed a mixture of surfers and families as we approached the Pacific, with each step the breakers becoming louder. On reaching end of the trail we were rewarded with one of the most perfect beaches on Earth.
About one kilometre in length and possessing perfect white sand, this beach is picture postcard material. We stood in awe as the ocean breeze blew the spray onto our faces, mouths agog. After a short time our attention was caught by dark, shifting shapes crawling along the sand - marine iguanas. Incredibly, you could approach these reptiles within just a couple of metres before they upped their sluggish pace and ran off along the beach in search of algae. After only ten minutes we had to head back down the track through the forest. Victims once again of our own proclivity for long lie-ins and lengthy breakfasts.
Eddie Spaghetti was not happy. We'd kept him waiting too long for his liking. Grumpily, he guided us the half kilometre along the path to the Charles Darwin Research Station. There he proceeded to reluctantly provide us with information whilst clearly wishing he was somewhere else. *A note to anyone intending to visit the Galápagos: Go independently. We booked a land based trip with an agency (as opposed to a cruise) and many of the activities could be arranged in Puerto Ayora for less money. Organised trips and guides are only my cup of tea when absolutely necessary. I'm not sure paying for a local to read out some signs about turtles I could read myself is really the best use of travelling cash.* The turtles, many of which had been rescued, were being used in a breeding programme. A long term investment when you consider their lifespan. Lonesome George lives at this station. This old turtle is famous because he is the last of his subspecies. Quite sad to see the process of extinction in action.
That evening we ate at El Chocolate, the restaurant we were obliged to dine at as part of our package. Eddie promised he'd call the mysterious Andrea as we wanted to discuss the rest of our trip, a little disappointed to have paid about $80 for a two hour walk we could have easily completed ourselves. He informed us she would come round to our hotel for a chat then he promptly disappeared. Not his favourite gringoes it would seem.
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