It's been a hard day's night...

And I've been working like a dog.  Or at least that's how I felt once the interminable ceremony was over.  Mao Tanka was the captain for the second flight of the Eagle Condor.  A shaman of Colombian origin with many years experience in the Amazonian Putumayo tradition.  He was a sight to behold, possessing an energy which burst from his body in dance and song.  A brilliant shaman and performer, he held the space throughout the ceremony with great skill, charisma and humour.  Again we arrived early, this time in our Shipibo clothing, but space was at a premium, a sell-out crowd once more.  But our little clan of Gringoes had grown and we managed to make our presence felt amongst the international crowd.

The temple had been prepared with great care for the ceremony ahead.  Opposite the main entrance, beyond the central fireplace, an altar had been created.  This painstaking work must have taken many hours of patient care to install.  The entire design had been created using the dark red earth which forms the soil in these hills.  This had been formed into a small circle for embers from the fire used to burn incense and natural offerings such as cedar wood and palo santo. Next to this crucible was a larger circle studded with flowers.  In the centre was a large Andean cross which housed a huge crystal which seemed to emanate its own energy.  The whole design was lined with jewellery made from the glass beads used by Amazonian artesans. The entire construction pointed like a giant arrow through the temple to Mao Tanka sitting at its head surrounded by the many tools of his trade; ayahuasca, San Pedro, incense, flowers, feathers, a staff, various liquids and snuff.  His hat, a fedora with a huge trail of feathers hanging from the back, was particularly impressive and endowed him with considerable pulling power (so I was told).

The temple gradually filled as we approached take off at half past seven.  Some new faces, some returns from the first night's ceremony, all crammed in like sardines.  Mao entered with his group of musicans and Kuauhtli, a Mexican shaman who would assist during the evening.  The circle was opened with an address from Kuauhtli.  He spoke of the Eagle Condor Prophecy of the traditions of the Americas.  It is said that a time will come when the different tribes will come together to form one Tribe of Many Colours.  The eagle of the north will fly with the condor of the south.  When the plant medicines come together the two birds will form  one entity that will take to the skies.  The beating of its huge wings will create a wind that will blow across the lands of the Earth causing humanity to wake from its slumber.  A slumber in which we have been living out of balance with nature and with each other, a slumber from which we will awaken to a new future of humanity where we will learn to live in harmony with the planet, one nation under one sky.  We all felt very privileged to be part of the realisation of the prophecy.

Mao began the proceedings with one of several addresses to the gathered throng.  Each of these was delivered with aplomb, at times serious, at times lighthearted.  Initially he reminded us of why we had gathered together, the whole evening was dedicated to prayer.  Prayer to whatever higher power you choose to believe in, to the human race, to Pachamama - the intended target of the prayer is less important than the feeling it generates within.  A feeling of gratitude for all we've been given, of love for all life, of hope for the future.  At times during the ceremony I would find myself having an amazing time but unsure of the purpose.  This suggestion that the evening was essentially one enormous prayer was very helpful.  It reminded me of the distinction between an enjoyable night at a club or concert and the more sacred motivation involved with plant medicines.

The ayahuasca was placed in the altar and blessed by Mao using icaros and tobacco.  It resembled crude oil, thick and glossy.  We queued patiently to take our turn, necking the sweet, acrid liquid before returning to sit.  As night fell we sat in silence as Madre Ayahuasca began to take hold.  It's always different for every person and also every time for the same person.  Thankfully, for me it was another very powerful night.  The medicine began to manifest in a shimmering of the surroundings.  Mao's singing, which seemed to flow from his chest like a resonant drum, helped the medicine grow stronger.  Not only a talented singer he also played other instruments including the harmonica, drum and some kind of straw in glass jars used to imitate birds.  He was never still for long, often leaping up and frantically jumping around to the rhythm.  Clearly enjoying himself, he had everyone in the palm of his hand.  At times he would raise the energy with great rapidity and then lower it to a state of solemnity and reflection.

The music throughout the night was utterly mindblowing.  The guitarists, drummers and choir that accompanied Mao were astounding.  They would play their instruments in such diverse styles moving from fury and power to tenderness and delicacy in a way I've rarely seen.  Some songs were so uplifting the whole room would be jumping and singing along in a frenzied vortex, an open expression of joy, without reserve.  The floor was also opened up to other musicans, of which there were many.  They would often state where they were from - originating in all four corners of the Earth - before titillating the crowd with exquisite a capellas and instrumentals which left us all speechless.  Interspersed with these performances were people who wished to speak, to give thanks for something in their lives.  Moving stuff.

We drank ayahuasca collectively three times throughout the ceremony which lasted over fifteen hours.  Some serious stamina was needed from everyone there as the night wore on and night slowly gave way to day.  The strength of my experience ebbed and flowed, my consciousness drifting between clear awareness of my surroundings and journeys to altered states.  Again and again I would drift off only to be brought back by the music.  After each song we had a period of silence in which I could feel ayahuasca intimately present in my whole body, a reassuring presence teaching and protecting me.  Changing my very nature at a cellular level.  Prayer was never something I have been very comfortable with but ayahuasca taught me how to pray.  For me it's simply a sense of gratitude.  To allow a state of thanks to flood my being and dwell in it.  Silently expressing thanks in all directions, not to anyone or anything in particular.  Thanks for my body which takes so much abuse, thanks for my mind, the Earth and all she gives us, my family, friends and the chance to be a part of the miracle that is existence.  And thanks to the universe for recently delivering someone very special into my life.

Surprisingly there were children present at the ceremony.  About a dozen of them ranging from about a year to eight years old.  The smaller ones had a spot of ayahuasca applied to their third eye by Mao, the older ones had a little taste.  My previous conditioning popped the thought, "That can't be right, giving kids ayahuasca," but this is the residue from some western conditioning that ayahuasca is a drug.  It's not.  It's a medicine, a teacher, a protector.  People who take it invariably benefit.  It is non-addictive, in fact it is used to help cure many addictions.  For those who still feel they would like to label these natural gifts as drugs I suggest delving into the vast research and literature on the subject.  These kids had an amazing night.  They were naturally perfectly behaved, no coercion needed.  The youngest, at a lull in the ceremony, picked up a rattle and began singing like a miniature shaman.  The hearts of all in the temple melted.

On the whole most people had a good journey, it's a difficult situation to have a tough time as it's so crowded and public with not so many helpers available for the huge numbers.  A guy I was with was unsure whether he wanted a second cup.  On asking him why he told me he was worried there were dark things from his past that would surface.  This feature of ayahuasca, to reveal past traumas, is common and one  thing that people find difficult.  Abuse, neglect and pain that we bury deep inside festers and manifests physically or mentally if not addressed.  Ayahuasca allows the release of hidden trauma leaving the person lighter and healthier, but it's not easy.  My friend bravely took another glass.  He then began to dance in an increasingly frenzied manner.  After some time he began having thoughts associated with the shifting  consciousness, how some people are expecting this shift at some point in the future.  He was convinced the evolution was occurring there and then and he wanted to let everone know.  He began shouting to the amassed crowd, "Wake up!  What are you waiting for?"  This went on for some time before he began asking , "Who am I offending?  No one can offend me, it's not possible!"  His energy became increasingly intense and he actually began hitting me round the head with some force.  I thought this was hilarious but must have been a little distressing to those nearby as they asked him to stop with some concern.  He calmed for a while before bubbling up once again during a French lullaby being sung by a north African girl.  When he began shouting out again he was gently escorted out where he was helped by friends and healers.  It took some time to pass and he seemed regretful once he realised what had happened.  However, everyone experienced in plant medicines has seen this kind of thing before.  These deep-seated trumas often come out in vigorous, sometimes agressive ways.  It is essential to allow this expression, to release it from the person leaving them healed.  These situations are always dealt with using understanding, forgiveness and tolerance.  This is how the plant medicines heal.

As the sun rose we summoned up the energy for one more round of medicine, San Pedro this time to welcome the sun.  We had a small amount which brought a little clarity to the mind, a calming after the storminess of ayahuasca.  As the brightness grew we were given a little food for breakfast before walking home together.  The day was spent rejuvenating with my fellow pasajeros before dinner in the evening.  On our return to the hostel we witnessed a strange natural phenomena.  Lightning could be seen in clouds which seemed to encircle Alto Paraíso.  Weird lightning as the sky above us was completely clear, stars aplenty.  There was no rain, no wind and no thunder - not a sound.  The owner told us that this electrical activity is a result of the huge concentration of crystals found in the rocks of these hills.  Very strange indeed.  I suppose a town with a main street called Kundalini Avenue is bound to have a few odd happenings!