El Camino Inka - Day 4

The day I had been waiting years for, literally.  My first glimpse of Machu Picchu would be the reward for some tough trekking in the unforgiving Andes.  We were all excited and only too happy to wake up at three ready for the final assault.  However, the first stage of this final push was a little disappointing to say the least.  After breakfast we began the hike of some 300m to the final checkpoint before Machu Picchu.  Sadly, the gates don't open until 5.30 and we were faced with a wait of two hours before we could begin the final push.  We discussed the unfairness of such a move by the authorities.  It seems sensible that those who walk the trail should have the reward of being first in Machu Picchu on any given day.  We would have been willing to walk through the night without sleep for such a privilege but no such luck.  The first buses begin dragging the tourists up from nearby Aguas Calientes at 5.30am.  This meant that even if we ran at full pelt we would still arrive after them.

Despite our constant grumbling about this grave injustice we waited in high spirits, singing to keep our group's spirit aloft (and the other groups depressed?).  Once the gates opened we were like dogs at the greyhound track.  We raced along powered by the high-octance lyrics of Jim Morrison and Billy Joel.  Even the infamous steps known as the 'Gringo Killers' didn't deter us from our singular focus.  The journey, which should have taken two hours was completed in half the time and we arrived at the world heritage site to find... mist!  ...And tourists. 

The irony was amusing as were Dave's comments to the bussed-in sightseers such as, "Hey, did you enjoy the bus ride up?" and "Wow!  Your boots are so clean, man!"  Our sarcasm was lost on the crowd of international travellers who didn't seem to understand where we had appeared from and why we had such large bags.  Another strange requirement was the fact we had to exit the site only to queue up again to reenter.  We sulked for a while in the cafe with our grumpiness increased by the extortionate prices.  How funny to have a dream come true and be flawed at the same time.  (In reality we were all over the moon to have made it and delighted to be there).

After a coffee the sun began to burn up the mist and we toured the site with our guide, Roberto, who liberally applied facts to our eager ears - although we thought a few were created for his own amusement.  The extraordinary number of fascinating features of this newly voted 'Wonder of the World' (in 2007) are too many to go into here.  The place lives up to its reputation, even with the hordes of tourists.  I could have spent a great deal more time in this magical mountain city and intend to visit again at some point.  I can't recommend the experience enough.  Go!

After our morning tour I left the group to climb Huayna Picchu, the classic peak featured in almost every picture of the archeological site.  I had a deadline to meet the gang at a restaurant in Aguas Calientes and therefore needed one last rapid ascent to the top, no time to relax.  Huayna Picchu is astounding, the steps are almost vertical in places and the cables helpfully installed by the authorities are of great assistance.  There are points it seems there is nothing between you and a fall of a kilometre of so to certain death.  I'm usually fairly okay with heights but this certainly challenged the nerves.  As I sat atop this magnificent peak, mouth open in pure astonishment, I was deeply moved.  Moved by the ancient beauty before me, by the inexplicable ingenuity of an ancient people, by the majesty of Pachmama at her very best.  But, surprising to me, something more important caused a tear to well up... just a little one.  That was the people I'd shared the journey with.  The humour and generosity of my companions on the trail.  The hospitality of our guides.  But most of all, the selfless service of our porters whose humility, strength and cheerfulness are unlike anything I've ever seen before.  Muchísimas gracias!